Hang Mam - Street Of Fish Sauce
While a few streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter have retained their traditional commercial activities, others have adapted to new types of businesses to keep pace with the rapid development and lively lifestyle. Hang Mam is one such street.
Measuring a modest 190 meters in length, Hang Mam Street begins at Tran Nhat Duat Street and connects to Hang Bac Street at the Ma May junction, crossing Nguyen Huu Huan Street. The name "mam," which translates to "fish sauce," reflects its historical significance in the production and sale of various kinds of fish sauces and seafood products.
History
Hang Mam Street was formed from the merging of two older streets: Hang Trung to the east, and the original Hang Mam, which was once a bustling hub for the fish sauce trade. However, this industry did not significantly evolve over time. By the 1940s, the area saw an influx of tombstone carvers who established a ceramics industry focused on memorial stone engraving, including coffins and tombstones, which became the primary products of this locale.
Today, Hang Mam Street has shifted away from its fish sauce roots and now features a range of boutiques selling fashion items, and, notably, tombstones.
What to see
If you stroll along Tombstone Street early in the morning, you will experience a relatively serene, traffic-free atmosphere. This is an excellent opportunity to observe tombstone shop owners as they set up their displays and prepare their offerings for the day. The stones available are primarily black or varying shades of gray, with a few items in gold or brass tones. Number 30 Hang Mam is a well-known spot to see an extensive collection of tombstones just after dawn.
Where to stay
While accommodation options on Hang Mam Street are limited, they tend to be affordable and cater to various budgets. Staying here is a great way to immerse yourself in local life while saving money.
Hoa Duong Hotel (1 Hang Mam)
This hotel provides an authentic Hanoi experience, with easy access to major attractions such as Hoan Kiem Lake, the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater, and some of the city's best nightlife venues.
Parkson Hotel Hanoi (7 Hang Mam)
The 3-star hotel features 30 non-smoking rooms, offering guests comfort and style. Rooms are well-appointed with modern amenities, and additional services include laundry and dry cleaning, meeting facilities, and an executive floor.
Happy Backpacker’s Hostel (29-31 Hang Mam)
This budget-friendly hostel is an excellent choice for backpackers and travelers on a tight budget. The accommodation boasts essential facilities and is conveniently located near a variety of city highlights.
Tips
Cheap, authentic and supremely instagram-worthy, Hang Mam Street boasts a real stretch of street food where your foodie quest is satisfied with a lot of Hanoi’s specialties for more than 3 main courses per day.
Xoi: This is a popular Vietnamese on-the-go breakfast item made from glutinous rice and other ingredients. “Xoi” is mostly sweet or savory and usually added with various kinds of topping such as fried onions, ground beans, teamed pieces of chicken, corn and peanuts. Xoi Yen at 35B Nguyen Huu Huan, a few steps from Hang Mam Street is a good place to try this specialty in the early morning.

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