Beyond Hanoi Old Quarter: Tay Ho Has Good Street Food Too

It’s not cafes or fine-dining restaurants but street food that offers travelers a firsthand experience with authentic Vietnam's gastronomic scene.

While the Old Quarter remains a popular destination for cheap and tasty street food, the Tay Ho area has experienced a culinary renaissance in recent years. This transformation followed infrastructure upgrades, including new roadways that have attracted an influx of creative locals and expats to the vibrant West Lake food landscape.

Tay Ho’s street food scene has much to offer, provided one knows where to go. Here are some top suggestions:

Pho Cuon (Ngu Xa)

To the older generation, Ngu Xa was renowned as the home of Hanoi’s finest copper smiths. However, for younger Hanoians, this area is primarily associated with ‘pho cuon’ - stir-fried beef wrapped in delicate rice noodle sheets along with coriander and lettuce.

Photo : kenh14.vn

For anyone familiar with Vietnamese fresh spring rolls, the resemblance is clear. Pho cuon features noodle sheets as wrappers instead of rice paper and stir-fried beef in place of the typical rice noodles, resulting in a dish that is incredibly fresh, with crunchy and aromatic vegetables complementing the tender beef.

• Hung Ben Restaurant: 33 Ngu Xa Street.
• Huong Mai Restaurant: 27 Ngu Xa Street.

Bun cha (Ngoc Ha)

‘Bun cha’ remains a lunch staple for many Hanoians, yet the reasons for this are still somewhat of a mystery. Ask a local why small ‘bun cha’ eateries only serve this dish at lunchtime, and the answer will likely remain vague, with some considering it odd to have such a hearty meal at other times.

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This dish consists of grilled pork belly strips and meat patties, accompanied by heaps of fresh herbs and rice noodles. Just take a bit of everything and dip it in the amber-colored sweet and sour sauce to understand why the late Anthony Bourdain chose ‘bun cha’ to introduce to former U.S. President Obama.

If you prefer to avoid the crowds at Bun Cha Huong Lien, commonly known as Bun Cha Obama—often bustling with tourists and locals alike—Bun Cha Huyen Linh makes for an excellent alternative.

Bun Cha Huyen Linh: 136 Ngoc Ha Street

Banh Trang Tron - Rice Paper Salad (Thuy Khue)

Rice, a staple food across Asia, serves as the essential building block for numerous Vietnamese dishes.

‘Banh trang tron’ consists of crunchy shredded rice paper combined with an array of toppings, including beef jerky, shredded green mango, boiled quail eggs, and mint, all served with a special Vietnamese dressing. The secret to an irresistible ‘banh trang tron’ lies in its sauce, which achieves a delicate balance of the four primary flavors: sour, sweet, salty, and spicy.

Photo : shipngon.com

While in the Tay Ho area, don’t miss the chance to try ‘banh trang tron’ at a quaint eatery located at 22/324 Thuy Khue.

Banh Trang Tron: 22/324 Thuy Khue

Hot Rice Porridge with Pork Ribs (Thuy Khue)

As the chilly winter months set in, Hanoi’s residents often turn to comforting rice porridge to warm up during the brisk mornings and evenings. The Vietnamese version features rice boiled in stock until it reaches a thick consistency. Depending on personal preference, it can take on savory flavors with meat and fried shallots or be sweetened with sugar.

Photo : metrip.vn

This comforting dish appeals to all ages and is quite affordable. In the Tay Ho area, a popular choice is a street-side eatery at 434 Thuy Khue, known for its savory porridge served with options like pork floss, pork ribs, and fried breadsticks.

Savory rice porridge with pork ribs: 434 Thuy Khue