History of Ancient Text Street in Hanoi

Over the past decade, there has been a revival in interest regarding one of the most cherished aspects of Vietnamese culture, the ancient script. As Western influences expanded, the presence of traditional cultural practices diminished, yet hopes for a renaissance have emerged. The image of the "Ông Đồ" (Ancient Text Scholar) with a case of calligraphy pens, wandering silently through the streets, has transitioned from a symbol of fading tradition to a vibrant presence in modern Vietnam.

Today, the Ancient Text Street, adjacent to Hanoi's Temple of Literature, has become a bustling hub for Ông Đồ from various northern regions. These scholars gather to engage with the youth and share the beauty of this ancient art, ensuring its continuation into future generations.

Ông Đồ's work brightens a corner of the street during the Tet festival

The Emergence of Ancient Text Street and the Revival of Vietnam’s Traditional Calligraphy

Established approximately 12 years ago, the Ancient Text Street was initiated by a group of Ông Đồ who congregated to showcase and gift their exquisite handwritten works during the Tet Holiday. This marked a rejuvenation of the deeply rooted calligraphy culture in Vietnam. The site was aptly chosen due to its proximity to one of Hanoi's key educational landmarks and its stature as a symbol of Vietnamese heritage.

Initially, only a handful of Ông Đồ occupied the area near the Temple of Literature, but as word spread, more scholars from various northern provinces flocked to this creative space. This led to the flourishing of ancient script artistry and attracted numerous visitors each Tet holiday.

Photo: @kimberley_le

The people of Hanoi have grown accustomed to the enchanting sight of this vibrant street each Tet. Dozens of Ông Đồ, spanning all ages—including women—dressed in a blend of traditional scholar attire and modern clothing, skillfully maneuver their brushes to create stunning pieces that reflect both traditional Chinese calligraphy and contemporary styles.

From Street to Market for Ancient Texts

This street has transformed into a lively market for calligraphy. Increasingly, Ông Đồ have come to sell their works not only to locals but also to foreigners, helping to promote and sustain the cultural tradition while catering to the public's yearning for splendid calligraphic creations.

When the street first opened, financial transactions were minimal, focusing instead on the value of the art. Visitors compensated Ông Đồ not merely for the calligraphy produced but for the artistry, dedication, and cultural significance behind their work. Many Ông Đồ even chose to gift their creations, viewing the process of writing as a passion rather than a source of income.

However, the Ancient Text Street has increasingly taken on a commercial aspect. While some experienced Ông Đồ still embrace the tradition of gifting their work, many newcomers, particularly younger artists, view their calligraphy as a product for sale, sometimes overshadowing its cultural value. This shift is evident as newer practitioners focus on market dynamics, lacking the deep-rooted dignity that has long characterized the traditional art form.

Read more: Vietnamese traditional calligraphy during Tet