Hit me up, Jam me in

Who would expect that one of the most unnerving aspects of the thousand-year-old city of Hanoi is the constant risk of being hit by a bus at any moment?

I returned home after several years in the United States. I had changed, or as my friends like to say, I had become "Americanized." It was both thrilling and surreal to be back and once again part of what I once knew. I gazed at the streets I had navigated as a teenager on my bike with a mix of nostalgia and awe. The driving style here is far from the orderly manner of American roads. In the winter of 2025 alone, I found myself almost hit on numerous occasions by various vehicles. My driving lessons in Oregon were no preparation for the chaos of Hanoi’s traffic or the assertive pedestrians who often crossed my path at inopportune moments.

Driving a car in Hanoi feels like performing a balancing act. The daily 40 km journey to work that my father undertakes routinely takes more than an hour, with half of that spent covering just the first 10 km of the urban sprawl. Car drivers stick to traffic rules adequately, or else face fines that are more bothersome than punitive. However, it's the mopeds trying to navigate the tiny spaces between the cars that create real challenges. Even proficient drivers struggle to make progress in traffic that sometimes only allows for moving a few feet at a time, which can be incredibly frustrating. But life lightens an hour later when one reaches the office and dives into the busy workday. It's surprising how Hanoians maintain their sanity amidst such chaotic commuting and the often tedious office tasks that follow.

Traffic in the city center in Hanoi

It truly is a mad world of motorbikes in a whirlwind where everyone is looking out for themselves. Observing from above, the typical sight of rush hour in Hanoi resembles a colony of ants navigating through endless bottlenecks. This sea of cars and mopeds, slithering into any available space, is humorously termed "organized chaos." For most people, it’s workable; they complain more out of habit. Yet, occasional collisions do lead to confrontations, with drivers stepping out to argue in the middle of traffic, driving everyone else into a frenzy. Fists may fly, and sometimes if the authorities can’t maneuver through traffic fast enough, things can get out of hand.

Busy traffic with motorbikes in Hanoi

Issues extend to the everyday moped riders as well. While some ride carefully and responsibly, others don’t possess licenses or seem unconcerned about road safety. There are also those who simply lack basic riding skills. Time and again, one witnesses young women grappling with their oversized mopeds, struggling to reach the ground with their feet.

In a country where entertainment options can be limited, young people often make the most out of what they have to enjoy themselves. Here, finding value in cheap mopeds and narrow, bustling streets is part of the experience. The film franchise Fast and Furious has long been popular, with the latest iteration released earlier this year, showcasing the adrenaline of street racing that is still alive today. Over the years, authorities have largely cracked down on illegal racing, and while it still happens, it is less common than during its peak when hundreds of bikes would race through the streets of Vietnam’s cities.

Younger and more reckless at the time, I never had the audacity to participate in such races. While I’ve always had a penchant for speed, it was never aimed at navigating the crowded narrow streets in the heart of Hanoi. Many young enthusiasts customize their vehicles for maximum speed, taking risks that I wouldn’t dare consider. My focus remains on enjoying rides in the serene landscapes outside the city. Yet, there are still those who relish the vibrancy of the busy streets. While illegal street racing may have lost some of its glamour, die-hard enthusiasts continue to embrace its undeniable allure, and occasionally, tourists, perhaps after a few "bia hoi," decide to join the fray.

True to their nature of making the best of any situation, bystanders frequently enjoy the spectacle of racers speeding by. It offers free entertainment, albeit risky entertainment. Spectators may revel in the thrill while remembering that accidents can occur at any time. Fatalities are rare, as local police tend to manage such situations effectively, but when accidents do happen, they can bring sorrow rather than joy.

Traffic in Hanoi

Being a pedestrian in this city is like a quail attempting to cross a busy freeway; drivers, whether in cars or on mopeds, rarely stop for anyone on foot. Cross streets at your own peril! One must be strategic: at times sneaking in, sliding out, or running across an intersection to reach the other side safely. The old adage of trusting your instincts takes a backseat to caution and a bit of luck. Drivers might sway to avoid pedestrians, but it’s wise not to depend on that! A notable figure, Seymour Papert, a pioneering MIT scientist, suffered an injury in the late 2000s while navigating this chaotic traffic and is still recuperating.

So really, don't count on drivers to watch out for you!