Floating on the streets

Summer rain is often anticipated by tropical residents seeking relief from hot days. However, in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, the rainy season frequently leads to flooding, disrupting daily life and bringing about scenes of stranded vehicles and unexpected street fishermen.

Indeed, rowing boats and catching fish are usually activities associated with the nearby Red River, not the streets of historic Hanoi. Yet, such unbelievable occurrences happen more often than one might imagine. What seems to be straight out of a disoriented dream is, in fact, a common sight in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City during the rainy season.

Photo: baogiaothong.vn

While one might expect that severe storms could wreak havoc on the cities, even a standard daily tide or a brief 30-minute downpour can transform numerous streets into expansive ponds. The implications of such flooding have left locals anxious about their daily routines, especially during rainstorms and particularly hurricanes.

Ho Chi Minh City, the economic powerhouse and the most modern city in Vietnam, seems ill-equipped to cope with the daily tides that frequently inundate its streets. Approximately 100 areas across the city are prone to frequent flooding when it rains, with additional locations severely impacted by rising tides. Areas like Thanh Da in Binh Thanh District and Ba Bo in Thu Duc District can be submerged to a meter or more, with floodwaters sometimes taking days to recede. As a result, transportation and commerce in affected districts can come to a halt, leading to flooded homes, damaged furniture, and residents feeling trapped indoors.

A similar situation occurs in Hanoi. The intense week-long rainfall during November 2008 remains etched in the memory of those living in the capital. Major thoroughfares such as Nguyen Trai, Thai Ha, and Thai Thinh were transformed into deep rivers (see Hanoi street map). The routine of the city’s inhabitants was disrupted significantly; many could not travel to work, communication with the outside world was severed, and shortages of electricity and food ensued. To exacerbate the crisis, raw waste overflowed from the sewer system, leading to health issues. Some individuals suffered injuries, and tragically, there were fatalities due to electric shocks or falls into concealed drainage holes. More recently, in July 2022, heavy rain causing flooding in urban areas evoked memories of the devastating 2008 flood, signaling a renewed warning for the rainy season.

  Despite the challenges, the resilient spirit of Vietnamese optimism shines through as residents respond to flooding in their own unique ways. Many Hanoians, particularly the younger crowd, find joy in participating in activities such as rowing boats or fishing in the transformed “street rivers.” Couples, inspired by romance, often stand beneath small umbrellas, marveling at the surreal sight of Sword Lake overflowing. New services catering to the stranded, such as delivering food and fresh produce via boat or cleanup operations, have emerged as both a necessity and an opportunity for local laborers.

Photo: qdnd.vn

Ironically, the devastating flood of 2008 inspired the parody song “Lut tu nga tu duong pho” (Flooded all over), which was featured in the annual “Year End Gathering” show in 2009. The song quickly gained popularity for its humorous and ironic lyrics set to a vibrant melody, with nearly half a million views on YouTube. Vietnamese children readily learn the song to celebrate each flood, proving that sarcasm is a hallmark of the Vietnamese spirit even in tough times.

Following the traumatic flood, Hanoians have become more conscious about weather forecasts and increasingly stock up on food ahead of predicted storms or heavy rains. However, there are instances of over-preparation leading to unnecessary stress. As news of an impending storm breaks, local markets clear out their stocks of fresh vegetables and meats, often seeing prices surge by 30% or more, with some items even doubling in cost. Shoppers rush to obtain food, and supermarkets will often find their inventories of instant noodles and canned foods emptied within hours. Notably, not all rainstorms will paralyze the city, as consumer behavior sometimes drives the rush for supplies more than the rain itself. Yet, these floods also present new challenges, helping urban residents to empathize with those in central Vietnam facing similar adversities annually.

Photo: danviet.vn

Tourist Advice:

Tourists visiting Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City during these rainy periods have the opportunity to experience a unique yet challenging aspect of urban life. Travelers can choose to view these events as nightmares or embrace them for the adventure they offer— the latter being far more enjoyable.

It is advisable for travelers to regularly check local weather forecasts, prepare rain gear, and adjust travel plans for transportation or scheduling. For those caught in the city during heavy rain, having a supply of food is essential. It is important to avoid flooded areas due to risks such as sinkholes and electric shocks. If you find yourself on a submerged street, local families usually extend hospitality and offer shelter. Taxis and buses may be difficult to hail during floods, as few drivers will risk navigating through waterlogged streets. Motorcyclists are advised to keep moving to prevent water from entering the engine, while pedestrians should remain understanding if drivers splash them while traversing flooded areas. Such occurrences are commonplace in these scenarios.

The customary responses during prolonged rains and storms often involve electricity outages, leading many to find creative means of transport, such as boating experiences. Tourists are often welcomed to join locals for boat rides or to assist in fishing. At the very least, visitors can capture memorable photos during this unprecedented time, which can be a refreshing chance to relive childhood joy.

With climate change and rising sea levels presenting global challenges, ambitious projects to enhance drainage systems have stalled, while government responses often appear slow and ineffective. Nevertheless, the resilient people of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City confront seasonal rains with steadfast optimism. This prevailing attitude reveals a profound cultural lesson for visitors, illustrating how locals cherish life despite adversity.